Dear Friends… I am still alive! And Happy Easter! I apologize for the long gap between posts, but a lot has happened to me in a short period of time. This entire Holy Week has been one to remember for sure. I thought about updating the blog periodically throughout the trip, but I didn’t want to rush to finish it on any night I was in Rome. I apologize in advance for the length. I haven’t even written the full post yet, and I know it will be lengthy. I’ll try to break it up for easier reading though. I’ll do this by days. Between the 500+ pictures taken and likely 20+ miles I walked, there is a lot!
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
This was the day of departure. I was getting excited for the trip as work drew to a close on Wednesday. At four I wished the guys a happy Easter, and was out the door. I procrastinated in my packing unfortunately. I wanted to make the chrism mass at the Frauenkirche downtown before my train arrived, so I had basically one hour to pack. I called the family, shoved my necessary clothes in my pack, and was on the road looking just like I was going into the wilderness for a week. It has been a while since I have had so much adrenaline running through my body. I was about to make a lone journey to the heart of Italy and the heart of the Catholic Church. Was it going to work? Would my train arrive? Would I be able to see what I wanted to see? Should I be doing this at all?? I was perhaps getting too anxious. At the chrism mass (which was packed!) I prayed that God to take the doubts away. I knew the trip was in his hands when I arrived at the cathedral just in time to snag the LAST open seat. The service began at 6:30pm and ended at 8:30pm… JUST in time for me to hoof it back to the main station for my departure train. I grabbed a drink and found the train. It was NOT the ICE. I was a little caught off guard. I guess I needed to pay more attention to the ticket I purchased. I was in a somewhat crammed six passenger car for the duration of the train ride. It was an intermittent-sleep kind of night. Between discomfort and excitement, it was difficult… but I was on my way to Rome.
Holy Thursday, April 21, 2011
There really wasn’t much of a break between Wednesday and Thursday. I’ll say the day started at 6am since I really wasn’t sleeping. Once the sun came out, I could see out the window of the train that the countryside had changed. More plaster/cement-wall type housing lined the landscape with tall mountains in the background. An Eastern sun broke through the clouds and highlighted the grape vines which settled along the hillsides. I was in Italy alright. To my astonishment, European trains as a whole are EXTREMELY punctual. My train arrived at 9:20am in the Roma Termini… only 5 minutes late. At last, I was in Rome.
My Hostel
The day was gorgeous and it remained so through the Triduum (high 60s and sunny). Rome has very narrow roads. None of them make sense (directionally). They are all roughly paved or laid with uneven cobblestone. If you don’t own a scooter, Fiat, or Mini, you are walking. This is NOT a traffic friendly city. And it is OLD. Wow, is it old. Everything showed layers of history. You could see houses built off the skeletons of ancient aqueducts and worn streets showing strata of different centuries. I have decided that sidewalk eateries and cafes are certainly an integral part of European culture. They were again everywhere in Rome… perhaps even more so than in Germany. I was immediately taking pictures because everything seemed to stand out and be unique. I later found out that gigantic statues and extravagant fountains are common on all streets- even in back streets and allies. This city was from an era where art was a part of everyday objects. Even streets signs are made of engraved marble slabs.
I arrived at the Pontifical College at around 10:30am and was greeted very warmly by a young nun at the door. She led me into the building and brought me to the ticket office. When I gave them my name for the reserved ticket, they confirmed that it was the Easter Mass that I wanted to attend. I said I would take ANY ticket they had available. The sister working the desk informed me that a family had declined 5 of their tickets for other masses that week and they had extras. I walked away with tickets to the Passion service on Friday, Easter Vigil on Saturday, and the Easter Mass on Sunday. What a blessing! I was extremely grateful. Before leaving, a very helpful priest gave me the low-down on navigating the Vatican and getting good seats at the events. He then made some general recommendations about sites in Rome. Finally, he informed me that English confessions were able to be made next door at any point during the day. I immediately did this and left the college feeling refreshed and ready to take on the weekend.
Statue of St. Joseph just inside of Pontifical Collge
I wanted to visit St. Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel today since they would likely be even more crowed before the end of the week, so that is the direction I headed. On the way were two other points of interest. The Fontana di Trevi was beautiful (I visited this multiple times during the trip… it is the best at night!). Just around the corner from the fountain was the Church of Crociferi. This is a church under the care of the Missionaries of the Precious Blood. This is the order that maintains our parishes in mid-west Ohio. My home parish of St. Henry is run by priests of the C.P.P.S. The founder of this society was St. Gaspar de Bufalo. At this church was his tomb. It was a comforting and blessed experience praying at his side. It made me feel much closer to home.
Roman Fountain - These are all over Rome!
I played the tourist role quite well fumbling with my map until I at last found the Vatican. I crossed a bridge adorned with angels and was awe-struck looking down the main aisle leading to St. Peter’s Square. What a sight! I walked up the square and set foot on my third European country since being in Europe. I had entered the smallest country in the world. I was surrounded by saints on all sides and the towering obelisk in the center of the square was the focal point. St. Peter’s, the sentinel of all churches, stood majestically in the background. The first person to greet me was a tour-guide. I immediately thought I was going to politely rid of him, but he basically offered me a tour of exactly what I had set to see that afternoon. The lines to EVERYTHING were already long. For a discounted student price (thank you International Student ID Card!) I was able to get a guided tour of the Vatican Museum, The Sistine Chapel, AND St. Peter’s Basilica WITHOUT lines. We set out at 1pm and waited for nothing. The Vatican Museum was incredible. I especially liked the tapestry room and map room. The Sistine Chapel at the end (it is a part of the museum) was breathtaking. No pictures were allowed, but I assure you, nothing compares to being there in person. This is where the pope is chosen!! I stared at the ceiling. This took years to paint. YEARS. To witness the art still present today was incredible. The guide then led us out a separate exit that went directly into St. Peter’s Basilica.
Map Room in Vatican Museum
Entering the basilica, I could hardly guess the true proportions of everything. It was simply enormous. I couldn’t even tell how high the ceiling was! Statues of the saints and popes were three times the size of me, and they looked like small figurines at the head of the nave. In the center was Bernini’s masterpiece of a canopy above the papal alter and to my right was Michelangelo’s Pieta. These were works and artists I have only ever read about. To be within inches of their most famous art made them come to life. After spending some time in the basilica, I went down into the crypt to see the tombs of past popes. There I saw the tomb of Pope John Paul II among many others. I’ll mention here that John Paul II is nothing short of a rock-star in Rome. It reminded me of Bob Marley in Jamaica. Figures and posters of the pope were everywhere throughout Rome, especially in preparation for his beatification in a week. After seeing several tombs, I had the opportunity to pray to St. Peter. He bones lie directly beneath the alter above. The last time I felt the presence of so many relics was my visit to the Shrine of Holy Relics in Maria Stein. It gave me serious goose-bumps. When I finally left the basilica for the night, I saw the Swiss Guard for the first time on my way out the door. Yes, they do look quite funny in their colorful attire. As the weekend progressed, I came to find that these men do not kid around. They can stand perfectly still and at attention through an entire 3 hour service. I don’t think I could do that as a drum major!
In Front of St. Peter's
It is an hour walk to the Vatican from my hostel. I began the walk back and on my way stopped at Santa Susana for mass celebrating the Last Supper. This is the American church in Rome. The services were in English, and I realized that this was the first time hearing mass in English in over a month! It was very relieving and the church reminded me of St. Monica St. George in Cincinnati. They sang similar hymns and even the gospel book was the same.
Santa Susana
Following mass, I checked into my hostel room. For the first time at this hostel, I was relieved. My room was perfect. A simple comfortable bed, a sink, a desk, and a weak Wi-Fi signal I could snag from the upper floor for a decent rate. My window opened up to the street overlooking the main train station, so it was loud. Luckily, the noise didn’t bother me. Every night I was so wore out, that I basically just shut down the minute my head hit the pillow. On this night, I didn’t stay up too late. I went out and had my first Italian pizza and gelato. Both were incredible, but not as much as my bed when I finally turned in for the night.
A good place to eat my first Italian pizza and gelato!
Good Friday, April 22, 2011
I’m a sucker for tradition, and this Good Friday was not going to begin in any other way than I have started it for the past three years in Cincinnati. Praying at the steps of Mt. Adams has been a Cincinnati tradition for decades; however, praying at the steps of Scala Sancta has been a tradition in Rome for a few centuries. These steps were brought into Rome from the Holy Land and were the steps that Christ supposedly climbed when facing Pontius Pilate before being crucified. They were covered by wooden steps for preservation, but glass windows were placed on the steps so that you could see the spots where Christ’s blood stained the steps. It was moving praying on those steps and a great way to begin the day.
Following the steps, I set out on a tour of the major basilicas. St. John Lateran (the church of the pope / bishop of Rome) was directly across the street from Scala Sancta, so it was first. I then proceeded to St. Mary Major (so named since it is the largest church dedicated to Mary). I had already visited St. Peter’s, so that left St. Paul Outside the Walls. I bought a train pass for this one; I didn’t feel like taking a 1.5 hour walk this time. The train system is interesting. It is far more dirty and rickety than any of the systems in Germany. They also only have two lines. The reason is that a subway line is expensive. Every time they tunnel, they must have archeologists at the frontline to ensure the Roman remains are properly navigated around. As I stated earlier, this city is literally layers of history!
St. Paul Outside the Walls was my favorite church in Rome. It was beautiful, and I really appreciated that it was separated from the bustle of the inner city (that’s my rural upbringing speaking). It lies near the site of St. Paul’s martyrdom and contains his tomb. Praying next to the man who wrote most of the New Testament was another moving experience. That man had faith. It is also in this church where the pictures of all the popes are all lined along the ceiling. In the front right corner of the church, a spotlight shined on the current Pope’s picture.
Paschal Candle in St. Paul's
I had a short lunch before heading to St. Peter’s Square in the afternoon. Along the way, I stopped at the Pantheon and saw Raphael’s tomb. It was another quick one hour walk, but I still had no idea how to navigate the streets. They are absolutely haphazard!
I jumped into line for the Passion service at about 1:00pm. The service was at 5:30pm. I know that sounds early, but I was actually about number 100 in the line that had already formed! I guess if you’re going to make a pilgrimage on Easter, you’re going to be willing to sacrifice the time necessary to get good seats at a papal mass. I will now recall the “line-experience”. The first two hours were nice. I simply sat in line and read a book. Things were peaceful. As the zero-hour approached, suddenly the line widened at the front (some faces were suspiciously strange). Space was also gradually consumed. I began with a comfortable 5 inch perimeter of space. By 3:30pm, I was shoulder to shoulder with those around me. When the Vatican police finally opened the gates to allow people into the Basilica, you’d have thought someone hit the “trash-compact” button! I was immediately shoved by the force of thousands of people behind me. I was shoved into the people in front of me, and despite the shrieking old women and elbowing nuns, there was little in my power to stop it. I was very upset at the ridiculous nature of the line. I figured people seeing the pope would be more civil, but it was somewhat frantic (this would be good mental prep for tomorrow). Luckily, the Vatican has a system in place. They allow everyone to enter in staggered intervals so it isn’t a complete stampede. Guards line the alley leading to the Basilica to check tickets, dress code, and to ensure everyone is walking. I was very fortunate when I found my seat. I could have sat close to the front, but instead chose an aisle seat towards the back. I had an aisle seat at my first papal event!! I was thrilled and glad for sticking it out in the crowd.
Sitting next to me were some seminarians studying in Rome. They came from St. Louis and the bishop from there was playing a role in the services. The gentlemen I talked to was in his final year and about to make his Deaconoate. We shared some stories and he filled me in on some of the proceedings since he had already been to a papal mass.
The service was great. The entrance and exit processions were the most memorable parts for me. I was less than one meter from the pope! I could have touched him! It was a once in a lifetime opportunity to be right next to the pope while he reflected on the lord’s death on the day of his Passion. I was even lucky to get some footage, so I can remember that moment for quite some time.
Later that night, the pope said the Stations of the Cross at the Colosseum. I was pretty wiped out from the day, so I went back to the hostel to jot down some thoughts and prepare for an early morning on Saturday. This was indeed a Good Friday. I will not forget it anytime soon.
St. Peter in the Far Distance at Night
Holy Saturday, April 23, 2011
I was up at about 5:45am this morning to beat some of the crowds. It started off great, because it was at this time I discovered that Italian coffee (cappuccino really) is even better than coffee in Germany!! I am seriously never going to look at American coffee the same. Really, that probably applies to most drinks… except Dr. Pepper… Anyway, after my cappuccino and croissant (fancy, right?), I walked back towards the Vatican. Italians are not early risers, so many of the shops and cafés were still closed. Walking through Piazza Navona, it was neat to see some of the business owners putting out tables, umbrellas, and chairs. It is a daily ritual for many. No restaurant or café exists without this outdoor section. It really does make the atmosphere here. You have the young and old couples seated at cafés, artists selling paintings around a central fountain, and families finding the best gelato shops and taking in the sights. Fantastic!
Here is my funny story for the day… and for those of you who know me, you’ll catch the humor. Tragically, I broke my sunglasses this morning when I dropped them on the Roman pavement. I was devastated (read in a sarcastic tone). Really, I was quite impressed. I made it an entire month in Europe before breaking them! I’ll have to strive for a longer stint after purchasing a new pair! If you know me well, you know that my sunglasses never stand a chance.
My main goal of the morning was to climb up St. Peter’s dome. Without a line, I made it to the Basilica in good time. The climb up the 500+ plus steps, however, was a challenge in itself. To any person not in good physical shape, the journey could have killed you. It was pretty intense! It was completely worth it though. This was probably one of the big highlights to the trip and it is a simple MUST for anyone visiting Rome! Every hilltop view in Rome shows the Basilica gracing the skyline. To see Rome from the Basilica itself was even more incredible. In the fresh morning air with the sun just rising above the distant mountains, it was an incredible view. I could have stayed up there looking out for quite some time… and I did.
If you ever wanted to know what lies directly above the nave of the basilica, it is actually a long gift shop on the roof of the church with nuns selling Vatican gift items! Think of that next time you walk into the church. After perusing the shop for a while, I descended and visited some of the other local shops selling gift items and souvenirs. I have never in my life seen so many rosaries for sale! There were also some interesting folk selling some very odd things on the streets. If you ever wanted a Mickey Mouse that danced when attached to your stereo, you could buy it from them. Strange…
Lunch was a terrific sandwich on fresh baked bread. Shortly after that, I was back in line-waiting-mode. Tonight was the Easter Vigil and I wasn’t going to let go of a good chance at seats for this mass. It is perhaps my favorite one of the year, and I had Papal tickets. I got in line at around 2:15pm. The doors would open for the mass at 7:30pm. Even more crazy, right? Again, I was not the first person there. I think I now know what it is like waiting outside stores before Black Friday. I think this was a little more justified, but who can say… sometimes a 54” TV selling for $100 after double rebates is worth a 12 hour wait. All kidding aside, the wait wasn’t too bad. I did some reading and got to know some of the folks around me. I found that SAME group of seminarians from Friday, and I also met another student studying in Rome. She was alone for the Easter holiday as well. At 5:30pm (two hours before the gates opened), the line was already pushing “gently”. I couldn’t really read anymore since I had no ability to access my bag. When they finally opened the gates at 7:30pm, it was twice the strength of Friday’s line. I could have lifted my feet and been carried to the front by the pressure on all sides of me! An old couple next to me clung to each other. The wife shouted expletives in Italian as the husband just struggled not to lose her. I had to chuckle to myself, as I knew her shouts were of little use. The guilty shoving party was hundreds of meters away from us. We did make it in alive again though!
I nabbed a front seat this time. I figured I had my aisle experience; I just wanted to experience the mass today. I sat next to a German family. It was awesome sitting next to people I could converse with! I’ve learned to appreciate that in a city filled with many languages I don’t know. The mass began at 9:00pm and was a 3 hour and 15 minute experience. The mass begins, as all Easter vigils, with all of the lights off. The only lights were the soft glowing ones behind all of the giant saint statues. It was an incredible sight. After the liturgy of light was the liturgy of the word. The second coolest thing happened when we sang the Gloria for the first time since lent began. Image the stadium lights at Nippert. Multiple the number by 10 and line them along the archways of the nave and crossing of the basilica. Now imagine they all turn on at once and the largest choir and band begin to play and sing at the same time. I can’t describe how incredible THAT was. Wow. The mass concluded at 12:15am and I walked back to my hostel. Day three… another incredible experience.
Gloria!
Easter Sunday, April 24, 2011
After breakfast and a short train ride, I was in line again for my final Papal Mass on Sunday. This one was actually in the square (as you probably already know if you have ever watched it on TV). The line was actually much less aggressive for this mass and I only waited 30 minutes before they opened the gates at 8:30am. I was able to get a seat just ten rows or so behind where the pope enters the square from the right. It was a little cloudy, but once the mass began, the sun broke through. It was a great welcome to the biggest day of the year! Even more exciting was the amount of people at the mass! That square was FULL. There was no room and the street farther down outside the Vatican was even full. It was a sight I will not soon forget. Every country represented… and little to my surprise there was even a proud group of Texans waving the lone-star flag! When communion time came, I literally watched a miracle happen. I had no idea how they would deliver communion to so many, but they did. Priests were accompanied by Vatican officials with giant yellow umbrellas. Everyone in the crowd basically went to the nearest umbrella and then returned to their seat. It was another sight to see in person! Mass finally concluded with the Pope’s “Urbi et Orbi” blessing. He makes two of these a year… one on Easter and the other at Christmas. He greeted and blessed all representing countries in their native tongue, and then left behind the window above St. Peter’s as the crowd gave one last giant cheer and applause. After that the giant bells of St. Peter’s rang for a solid 30 minutes. What a celebration!
After the Mass
I spent the afternoon picking up sights I had missed earlier in the weekend. This consisted of a round-Rome-hike. I broke a good sweat as I visited the Monumento Garibaldi, one of the hills of the Roman Revolution, the Fonte Acqua Paola, Santa Pietro in Montorio, Santa Maria in Trastevere, Isola Island, Circo Massimo, Constantine’s Arch, the Colosseum, and Basilica Santa Clamente. Seeing the Roman ruins was very cool and many of the churches I visited were also quite incredible. Santa Clamente was comprised of three levels. The top was naturally the present day church built in the 1200s. Below that was the foundation and remnants of the original 4th century church built during Constantine’s rule. BELOW THAT were the remains of the ancient Roman temple on which the first Christian church was built!
Constantine’s Arch and the Colosseum
After such a hike, I decided to celebrate Easter with some authentic Italian pasta. I stopped at a place called Merulana’s on recommendation by a close friend. It was delicious, and the sidewalk table was very relaxing. No big crowds (it was located near St. John Lateran) and the shade trees were nice after a long day in the sun (I did get a little burnt). After dinner I visited the real St. Peter in Chains, from which the cathedral in Cincinnati draws its name. I was able to see the chains that held St. Peter when he was held as a prisoner of Rome!
St. Peter in Chains
Later that night, I called home to wish the family a Happy Easter. I think of all the days I have been in Europe, homesickness struck the most strongly today. This was my first Easter away from home and family, and I felt it rather keenly throughout the day. Luckily, I had a lot to distract me, but I think I would have traded it pretty quickly to be with the family. Being away for so long and through major holidays is making me appreciate the time I do get with those I love much more than I did even before now.
Monday, April 25, 2011
This was my last day in Rome. It is good that I woke up early, because the Hostel was kicking everyone out at 7am because of maintenance on the gas lines! Another unpleasant surprise… I checked out at 7:15am and they fortunately again agreed to hold onto my luggage for the day. Monday was miserable and rainy. I didn’t care much for the weather, but I made the best of it with my little umbrella. I went to mass at Santa Maria degli Angeli and then left to see the Spanish Steps immediately following.
Spanish Steps
I said one last good-bye to the Vatican after the pope’s Pasquetta blessing on the big jumbo-tron screens. My last desire for the trip was to visit the station churches mentioned in the Little Black Book for lent. Unfortunately, some were closed because the Monday after Easter in Italy is a national holiday, commonly referred to as Little Easter. Nothing is open, and that includes some churches. I visited the Basilica Santa Sabina, Santa Maria in Domnica, Croce In Gerusalemme (Holy Cross Church), and San Lorenzo fuori le Mura (St. Lawrence Outside the Walls) in the afternoon. After all that walking, I was officially beat. At 4pm I grabbed my bags and found a place in the train station to grab a coffee and update my blog entry (I started it then). At 6:30pm I loaded onto the train and was ready to find my way back to Munich. It was another rough night for sleeping, but I expected as much. Farwell, Rome!
Santa Sabina
Tuesday, April 26, 2011 (Today)
The train rolled into the main station around 6:20am. I was back at my apartment by 7:00am. After dumping off my stuff and showering, I was at work punctually at 8:00am without missing a beat! I’ve literally been going non-stop this week! The wall of “tired” hit me around 3pm and my merciful supervisor told me to get some rest. I didn’t argue. That brings me to about now. I’m just finally finishing this update… and yes, it did turn out to be long. Perhaps you read it in sections or skimmed… in any case, I’m glad I have a good record of a “once-in-a-lifetime experience”. I will definitely be going back someday if I can. I will not be going back alone though. That’s too much awesome to experience without a companion or family.
More news to come soon! New roommate moves in tomorrow, so that’ll be the big update for the week. I hope everyone is having a wonderful Easter. Take the time to thank God for the miracle he gave us all!
Peace and Blessings,
Corey
